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středa 26. srpna 2015

Mšeno Art Deco Swimming



During the recent heatwave I went out to see a friend near Kokořín and after walking around the nearby forests we decided to cool down in the local pool. Given the temperatures, with everyone out it was a dip rather a swim.

The swimming pool in Msěno is a unique structure surrounded by a lush lawn with a backdrop of sandstone rocks. It is one of the few recognizably art deco swimming pools in the country with many authentic details. The pool was inspired by a much more sophisticated example of a swimming pool and leisure grounds in Klánovice, which we would today recognise as a kind of country club. Unfortunately it no longer stands and can only be viewed in period photos.
http://www.starepohledy.cz/index.php?action=ShowPicture&id=253296
In Msěno the unknown architect decided to go for the contemporary Rondo-Cubist art-deco style while mimicking 19th century spa colonnades where the hot springs .The main building is divided into 3 parts, each with a different purpose.
Some of the Rondo-Cubist details
                                           
A view from the rotunda


A good sausage can never be missed!

 The central rotunda was conceived as the bar and dining room which could also hold an orchestra for live music. The right wing is enclosed in case of bad weather and was used meant as a restaurant, reading room and lounge. To the left is the open veranda containing individual sitting booths each with its own table and chairs. This section also has more of the “service” part of the building as it houses the cloakrooms , changing rooms and bathrooms most of which can still be seen  today in near original condition. All the windows and other architectural details are formed in the typical rounded cubist style down to the light fixtures. The veranda roofs are held up by pairs of pillars reminiscent of those in spa town colonnades.
The open left wing
The focal point of course is the swimming pool which is relatively generous by the standards of the day and has a luminous turquoise colour .Flanking the main  steps into the pool are two quintessentially art deco water fountains which provide a certain amount of whimsy . Pyramidal in shape with a ball finials, they follow through on the rondo cubist theme while also providing symmetry.
The water fountains

                        
Built in the early 30’s was part of the interwar drive to provide citizens with a sports and leisure venue as well as hygiene facilities. Many houses did have indoor plumbing but not bathrooms as Jan Kilián a historian whose has written extensively about the swimming pool states. That is why they are aptly also called the Msěno Public Baths and still have one of the original bathrooms complete with fixtures and tub. Patrons (mostly women) could soak in these tubs for a fee for the period of 40 minutes.

The original bathroom with fixture



 Another impetus for the building of such leisure venues was the changing lifestyle of the younger population where sports and the outdoors played a greater role as workers became entitled to paid leave. Havinga tan became a status symbol rather than a scar of manual labour.
I was not able to find out if the furniture is original or repro
                                 
                                             
The men’s changing room is an austere affair


Although not as well-known as the Barrandov Terraces swimming pool and restaurant which is an icon of interwar Czechoslovak glamour , this pool still has its claim to fame as it features in the debut film (Indian Summer)of the young Klára Issová. As Andrea Turjanicová mentions in her final thesis (Open-air Swimming Pools in Czech Architecture of the 1920s–1940s) most such places were built either in the above mentioned “spa “style or took a radically modern direction in the form of functionalist structures as the Barrandov pool, which today is derelict and further marred by the highway and bridge right in front of it. The diving platform became the emblem not only of Barrandov   pool but more generally of the sleek figures of those who used it.
The enclosed right wing
 These outdoor swimming pools were almost always fed by nearby natural sources of water making them pretty cold but were also designed as a social gathering place for the entire community. Unlike contemporary “aqua parks” which are mainly aimed at children these were focused at an adult clientele which is also reflected in the design and layout of the pool. The trend of building outdoor swimming pools went on into the 80’s when they were gradually overtaken by indoor year round pools and the eventual proliferation of private garden swimming pools.
 
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Credit to: Andrea Turjanicová, Diplomová práce,Koupaliště jako architektonický úkol.Univerzita Karlova v Praze,Filosofická fakulta,Ústav pro dějiny umění,Praha 2009
                 Jan Kilián ,Městské Lázně Mšeno, Městský Úřad Mšeno,2004

neděle 16. listopadu 2014

Rondo-Cubism




A rondo-cubist doorway- Palác Akropolis
 The last two decades have brought not only democracy and a new country but also a lot of new construction both residential and commercial. There have also been fierce debates about what is being built.. While it is less common today see Cinderella inspired chateau villas there is still the general notion that contemporary Czech architecture is not particularly tasteful. Maybe as a reaction to the stuffiness and aesthetic confusion of the 90’s young Czechs most often prefer “minimalism” a style in fact older than their grandparents..The prevailng inclination towards “minimalism” often translates to slightly sterile contemporary interiors from a big manufacturer.


A rondo-cubist villa
 
The debate about design aesthetics has been part of Czech society since the founding of the country right after WWI. Although the interwar period is most seen from a functionalist/Bauhaus perspective there were other styles of building as well.
A specifically Czechoslovak style was Rondo-Cubism also known as the National style or Czech Art deco and is based on circles, semi circles and rounded ornamentation. As a result it has also been referred to as croissant art deco.

Detail of  semi detached houses
           

         This style is a softer version of cubism  and art deco. Originally conceived as an architectural expression of the newly established Czechoslovakia, it was meant to be a style which would give the new country an aesthetic identity.

In part the crispness of   rondo-cubism and art deco was a reaction to the loose organic forms of art Nouveau which was beginning to be seriously outdated by the end of the Great War. Both art Nouveau a and art deco though often drew inspiration from nature or the far East, which is most often seen in the applied arts.

One of the few houses with the tricolor scheme.
 

The   two main advocates of rondo cubism were architects Josef Gočár and Pavel Janák who looked to old folk architecture for inspiration. The style was meant for the masses of the new country in contrast to art deco which sought to present glamour and sophistication to the urban elite. It is therefore not very common to see items of everyday use made in this style. Although not very popular with architectural establishment of the day who saw the style as somewhat vernacular   it was popular with the public in the interwar period .Evidence are middle class villas and  some apartment houses in bigger towns and in Prague.

The detail of an original  wooden fence.
 
Right after WWI Gočár and Janák were able to secure commissions from state institutions which was crucial in introducing the style to the wider public. To further emphasize  the patriotic nature of rondo –cubism  they  intended for all rondo-cubist  public building to be painted in the Czechoslovak national colors of red blue and white  a combinational that works surprisingly well and gives the facades a three dimensional aspect. The Legions Bank or the Adria Palace in Prague are the best known examples.

The façade of Palác Akropolis

Rondo cubist nesting tables
Image courtesy of : http://hnn.cz/2004-maturitni-prace-umelecko-remeslne-zpracovani-dreva/

         


  
    Over the last few years there has been growing interest and scholarship in rondo-cubism as many of the buildings are being repaired though few have kept the original tricolor facades. A good eye and a stroll from Vinohrady to  Vršovice  will give those interested an opportunity to become more familiar this art- deco offshoot.
I often wonder what architectural style the post communist Czech Republic will be remembered for.

P.S –My photographic skills are not the BEST.